To paddle into a heavy a wave that’s what surfing is really about for me. This is where my passion for surfing lies.
Don’t get me wrong, tow surfing has opened so many doors; it has allowed us to ride waves I could only dream of surfing and for that its an amazing tool. But when you paddle into a good wave – that’s when you really feel alive.
To paddle into heavy waves is no small task. Add in the weather we have to deal with in Ireland, and it makes paddling into heavy waves a real challenge. Most of the heavy waves here have only been surfed for a few years, so the limits of what is possible are being tested on every good swell. This makes for very challenging and exciting surfing, and its where my passion lies strongest.